But this thing didn’t work well for me and left me very frustrated! So I decided to build my own brake bleeder. (Please note that I’m not responsible for any damage you might do to your system so be careful)
The items you will need for this project are as follows:
1 gallon sprayer (preferably one with a relief value) I purchased a 2 gallon sprayer from Lowes.
1-1/2 Flexible PVC cap (Lowes) The cap will fit directly on the 98 Supra’s master cylinder without a problem.
Back mount PSI gauge 1/4″ NPT (Lowes)
3/8-in x 1/4-in Brass Pipe Fitting (Lowes)
1/4-in x 1/4-in Barb Fitting (Lowes)
1/4- Barb Splicer (Lowes)
¼”OD x 2-ft PVC Clear Vinyl Tubing (Lowes)
¼”ID x 6-ft PVC Clear Vinyl Tubing (Lowes)
Oil Drain Plug Gasket, M12 (1/2″) (Advance Auto)
(2) 5/16″ worm gear clamps (I’m not 100% because they weren’t marked. Pick some up to match the hose while at Lowes)
Drill Bit 29/64
Mark on the tank where you’d like to place the gauge. I marked close to the top of the sprayer but not too close or else I would not have had the clearance to install it. . I use a smaller drill bit for a pilot hole and finished up with the 29/64.
Once the hole is drilled, run a hairdryer on high heat over the hole for 3-5 minutes. The hole should stretch a little so you should be able to screw the gauge in. I made sure that teflon tape was applied to the threads and also installed a 7/16 O-ring. Only hand tighten the gauge do not strip the newly made threads by being overzealous.
The finished product should look like this.
The sprayer came with a hose and I used the 1/4- Barb Splicer to add an additional 6 feet of the ¼ ID clear hose to the sprayer. I added length to the hose so I won’t risk getting brake fluid on the car. Use (2) worm gear clamps to hold the splicer in place. Just want to make a good seal.
I first sought a real cap because I was worried about the seal. However, Toyota didn’t have one in stock, so I had to improvise. I purchased;
1-1/2 Flexible PVC cap
3/8-in x 1/4-in Brass Pipe Fitting
1/4-in x 1/4-in Barb Fitting
Use the 29/64 drill bit to put a hole into the top of the cap. Screw one of the oil drain washers to the fitting and then screw it into the cap. Take the other washer and screw it onto the fitting inside of the cap. Put some tape on the threads and then screw it into the other fitting. When it starts to get hand tight, use a wrench to add another half turn or so. Again, don’t over tighten.
Place the cap onto a pvc pipe and applied 10psi to make sure there weren’t any leaks. If it does check the hose junction, the cap and or the gauge. Those are weakest points on where you could have failure.
1. The bleed order is RR, LR, RF, LF
2. Make sure the tank is clean and then apply brake fluid. I’m using super blue fluid (1 liter)
3. Use the turkey baster to suck out all the fluid from the master cylinder. The fluid from the tank will fill the master cylinder and will reduce the amount of fluid that needs to be used. NOTE* the fluid was not removed because the system was bleed prior to making this DIY
4. Slide the cap over the master cylinder and then tighten the clamp. Not too tight!
5. Pump the tank until you have about 10-15 psi. You should see fluid moving toward the master cylinder. DO NO GO OVER 15PSI! It may damage your system.
7. Go to all 4 corners, most of the air bubbles should be removed from the system on the first round of bleedings. I ran a second test to check the system and no bubbles were found.
I hope this can be useful to those that need it.
This is my first WP post! Thank goodness for online tutorials because I was truly out of my element when it comes to be blogs. The main reason for the site revamping is because I needed a site that’s mobile friendly. I won’t have daily or even weekly updates, however whenever I have a photograph or DIY worth sharing?!?!? Look for it.
So welcome to Images By Awesome Kreations!